Food Fight! or: How I Learned to Stop Worrying and Love Culinary Competitions

(I started writing this on Monday, 4.15...Marathon Monday...and put it on hold for obvious reasons, #BostonStrong)

I have competed before; watching Chef Richard Rosendale, CMC and his commis, Corey Siegel, prepare for this year's Bocuse d'Or competition online, made me want to jump back in the ring.

photos courtesy of Bocuse d'Or USA

There are hundreds of live cooking competitions around the globe every year; I just needed to find one that was close to home, and that I could squeeze into my work schedule.  And, as it often happens, opportunity knocked: the ACF White Mountains Chef of the Year competition based on the ACF's 1-hour category K contemporary competition category.  It was not nearly of the magnitude involved with Bocuse d'Or, nor was it approaching the stress levels of the competitions that I have participated in previously.

I was in!

"Sign me up!"

When I agreed to participate, my sole intention was to win; crush the competition!!!  Pull out all of my culinary tricks.  No holds barred! (Especially after the chef who "took" my old job entered the competition)

My contemporaries in the area all poopoo modernist techniques.  My solution: include as many modernist techniques as possible.

Presentation?  Make it as contemporary as possible.

I was going to ride into town like Sheriff Bart in 'Blazing Saddles"...people were going to sit up and take notice of me, possibly dislike me at first, but eventually hoist me onto their shoulders in adulation!

Yaaaaaay, ME!

Then something happened while I was working up my formulas for the competition.  Something unexpected:

I stopped caring about winning.

I have been a hyper competitive person my entire life, "How could this happen?" I wondered aloud.

Now, don't get me wrong, I will be overjoyed and downright giddy to have have a President's Medallion hung from my neck on Friday night.  But this is no longer the end game.

It became about the process.  It was cooking for the sake of pure.  Cooking.  Nothing more.  I had a chance to learn more about quinoa, and how it cooked in various liquids, and how seasoning affects the cooking...

I broke down whole salmon, (MANY whole salmon), for the first time in a long time; each time with the goal of being faster, cleaner, more efficient.  I became an R&D chef: just how much fish sauce is too much?  Should it be added to the sauce hot? Cold?  I adopted the Rosendale/Siegel motto:

"Push Yourself"

I had a "program" that was easy.  Safe.  Easily executed in 60 minutes.  Not challenging...SO, I pushed myself, and crammed as many elements into 60 minutes that I could execute (while still building in some "Oh, crud!" time).




I took a page from Chef Rosendale's playbook, and focused on the organization before the competition.



I worked on refining the individual steps needed to actually execute the dish.  I consciously thought about each part of my program and what I could do to make each phase easier to execute; taking my cues from the photos above, I packed all of the equipment needed to execute each component in "kits."  All of my food mis en place was packed in kits as well...everything completely organized so that there was no searching, or guesswork.

It became about the journey...the destination was a receding horizon.  I practiced my recipes individually, and then ran through my entire dish several times...certainty that my dish would come together in 60 minutes was cemented.  During the competition I learned from my fellow competitors about some of the nuances of competing that I had forgotten about; seeing three of my contemporaries cook was inspirational both in a "I am going to steal that idea," and a "I wouldn't have done that" kind of way.

I exited the kitchen that day knowing more than I had arrived knowing; I was a better chef than I was the day before.

I Heart That Dirty Water...

The Standells.

I remember my father playing me "Dirty Water" (on vinyl) on a Sunday morning and being entranced by the song.  Enthralled by the picture painted of the city.

That was the day my love affair with the city of Boston started.

I was probably no older than 10, and had never been to Boston...but I knew then that it felt like "home."

I have always been a fan of the Red Sox; I was a catcher in Little League and my hero was Carlton Fisk.  I had a Carl Yastrzemski "signature" bat.  A second cousin of mine made three or four starts at first base for the Sox before disappearing into baseball obscurity.  All of this was awkward growing up in upstate NY.

I am a saxophone player and the Boston ska scene blew my Doc Martin's off!  Seeing the Mighty Mighty Bosstones and Chucklehead are still some of my favorite memories of club shows...

As a chef, some of the world's best chefs and most innovative restaurants worth emulating are in the greater Boston area.

As an adult, I fell in love in Boston.  I courted my wife in Boston; one of my favourite instances occurred outside the Copley Square T station.

The majority of my life's happiest moments are all entwined with Boston.

I have made it a point to take Marathon Monday/Patriots' Day off since moving to the area 14 years ago so that I could wake up with the Sox!  This year was no different...

Until it was different.  This year at 3:00 PM my heart was broken by the bombings at the finish line of the marathon.  Dumbfounded.  Full of rage.  With a hole in my heart...emptiness.  But these feelings were quickly replaced by compassion and empathy for the victims, the injured, and their families.  Gratitude and awe for the first responders and volunteers who ran toward the scene and not away from it, as I silently wondered, "could I do that?"

I cried in the car on my way to work listening to Carlos Arredondo, the Cowboy seen in photos, as he described saving Jeff Bauman's life by holding the femoral artery of Bauman's severed leg to keep him from losing more blood; this was after Carlos described the loss of his oldest son in Afghanistan, his youngest son to suicide, and his own attempt at suicide.

I cried again when I heard the crowd at Bruins first home game after Monday sing the Star Spangled Banner; the thought of it is causing tears to well up even now.  At the end of the same game the Buffalo Sabres held their sticks in the air to salute, and show their support of the people of Boston.  (And yes, I got chills every time I saw a different ball park with the Boston "B" on it, or heard of stadiums playing "Sweet Caroline," or when Progressive Field in Cleveland played Dirty Water to honor the Red Sox victory on Tuesday night...)

I have been blown away by the amount of class that has been shown this week by "rivals" and areas that look upon Beantown with contempt.

And this is what makes me happy to call the Boston area my Home.  The acts of selflessness, heroism, and solidarity in the wake of the events on Monday provide hope for the recovery of all of the hearts broken last Monday.

And for dessert...

Super light...super refreshing...super healthy...super easy!!!

Fruit Gazpacho

With Lavender-Champagne Granita and Coconut Tuile

Serves 6

GAZPACHO:

1          Cup                 Peeled, Seeded, and Diced Ripe Pineapple

1          Cup                 Peeled, Seeded, and Diced Ripe Canteloupe

1          Cup                 Peeled, Seeded, and Diced Ripe Honeydew Melon

1          Cup                 Seedless Grapes

½         Ea                    Peeled, Seeded, and Diced Cucumber

¼         Cup                 Freshly Squeezed Lime Juice

¼         Cup                 Sliced, Blanched, Raw Almonds (Optional)

to taste                        Honey

Working in batches, puree all ingredients until smooth in a blender; adjust seasoning with lime juice and honey and strain into a non-reactive container.  Can be made 3-5 days ahead; chill until ready to serve.

GRANITA:

¾         Cup                 Sparkling Wine/Champagne

1 ¼      Cup                 Water

1          Cup                 Sugar

¼         Cup                 Dried Lavender Flowers, (Food Safe)

Combine all ingredients in a 4-quart stockpot; bring to a simmer and cook until an egg (in the shell...a fancy pastry chef trick) floated in the syrup shows the size of a quarter.  Remove from the heat, strain and chill.  When fully chilled transfer to a metal pan and place in the freezer as level as possible.  Stir occasionally with a fork to create ice crystals; repeat until crystals resemble those of Italian ice.  Keep frozen until ready to serve.

TUILE:

¼         Cup                 Melted Butter

¼         Cup                 All Purpose Flour

¼         Cup                 Confectioner’s Sugar

¼         Cup                 Beaten Whole Eggs (approximately 3 ea. Large eggs)

¼         Cup                 Flaked Coconut

Combine first four ingredients in a mixing bowl and stir until smooth; add coconut and allow to rest at room temperature for 1 hour. 

Heat oven to 350°F.  Line a baking sheet with a silicone baking mat, parchment paper, or cooking spray; spread batter as thin as possible in cohesive or free form shapes.  Bake in pre-heated oven until golden brown and browned along the edges.  Allow to cool on baking tray for three to five minutes and transfer to a cooling rack.  Store cooled tuiles in an airtight container at room temperature for up to three days.  (Extra batter can be frozen for up to three months.)

TO ASSEMBLE: Ladle chilled gazpacho into chilled soup bowls; place a scoop of granita in the center of each bowl and top with a coconut cookie.  Garnish with fresh mint and fresh berries if desired.

Pork...it's what's for dinner

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courtesy of fibreandwater

Ok, ok...we all knew it wouldn't be long until the pig recipes came up!  BUT, in my defense, this is using the relatively healthy tenderloin of the pig, paired with big flavors of the salsa and rounded out by the earthy-smokiness of the polenta.  

Herbed Pork “Chateaubriand”

Grilled Polenta with Tomato-Artichoke Heart Salsa

Serves 6

For the Pork:

2          #’s                   Pork Tenderloin, Cleaned and Trimmed of visible Fat and Silver Skin

1          Tbsp.               Canola Oil

1          Cup                 Fresh Herbs, Packed

3          Ea.                   Whole, Peeled Cloves of Garlic

to taste                        Kosher Salt

to taste                        Ground Black Pepper

Combine oil, herbs, and garlic in the bowl of a food processor fitted with the “S” blade and process until slightly chunky, season with salt and pepper.  Rub cleaned pork with the herb oil and let stand at room temperature for 1 hour, basting with more herb oil occasionally.  The pork can then be grilled or pan roasted to the desired degree of doneness, (12-15 minutes for medium).  Let rest in a dish covered by a tent of aluminum foil for at least 20 minutes.

For the Polenta:

4          Cups                Water or Light Vegetable Stock
1          tsp.                  Kosher Salt

1          tsp.                  Ground Black Pepper

1          Tbsp.               Minced Garlic
1          Cup                 Cornmeal Or Instant Polenta

In a heavy saucepan bring water and salt to a boil and gradually whisk in cornmeal in a thin stream. Cook polenta over moderately low heat (it should be barely boiling), stirring constantly, until very thick and pulls away from side of pan, about 40 minutes for cornmeal and about 15 minutes for instant polenta. Remove pan from heat and cover to keep warm. Stir polenta just before using. Polenta will keep warm, covered, about 20 minutes. Makes about 3 cups. On a lightly oiled baking sheet spread warm polenta about 3/4-inch thick and cool to room temperature. Polenta may be made 2 days ahead and chilled, covered.  Before serving, cut into 1/6’s and spray with a little olive oil; gently heat on a pre-heated grill for five to eight minutes.  Reserve warm.

For The Salsa:

1          Ea.                   15-ounce Can Artichoke Hearts

1          Cup                 Seeded and Diced Ripe Tomatoes

1          Tbsp.               Minced Red Onion

1          Ea.                   Whole Peeled Clove of Garlic, Sliced

¼         Cup                 Chopped Cilantro

to taste                        Cayenne Pepper

to taste                        Cumin

to taste                        Fresh Lime Juice

to taste                        Kosher Salt

to taste                        Ground Black Pepper

Drain the artichoke hearts and rinse; quarter the hearts through the base of the hearts.  Combine the quartered artichoke hearts and the remaining ingredients in a bowl; adjust seasoning and reserve chilled until ready to serve.

TO ASSEMBLE: Place grilled polenta in the center of a dinner plate.  Slice the cooked pork tenderloin and arrange around the polenta and top with salsa.  Drizzle reserved juices from the pork and salsa around the edge of the pork. 

Spa Cuisine: Arugula-Wild Mushroom Barlotto

Photo courtesy of New Hampshire Mushroom Company, LLC

Well it appears as if this is going to turn into a series of recipes, all of healthy cooking and "conscious cuisine."  And while the timing coincides with the start of the springtime "gotta get a beach body" workout frenzy, these are recipes and techniques that can be implimented and rolled out any time of year.

"Barlotto" is a twist on the Venetian rice dish, risotto...only this version is made with pearled barley.  The technique is the same as when cooking risotto, and you can replace the barley with carnaroli rice, (short grain rice with the perfect combination of amylose and amylopectin...another post sometime in the future perhaps), or any whole-grain, (cooking time may need to be adjusted).

Arugula Barlotto  - Studded with Roquefort Cheese and Wild Mushrooms
Serves 6

For the Arugula Broth

_          tsp.                  Olive Oil Spray
1          Cup                 Diced Yellow Onion
2          tsp.                  Garlic, Minced
3          Cups                Arugula Leaves
4          Cups                Vegetable Stock
1          tsp.                  Sea Salt
to taste                        Freshly Ground Pepper

Heat a medium sauté pan over high heat; lightly spray pan with olive oil. Add onions and garlic. Sauté while stirring constantly for one minute. Add arugula stirring constantly for an additional minute. Pour hot vegetable stock into pan; season with sea salt and pepper. Place entire contents in a blender and puree until smooth. Reserve on the side while keeping broth hot.

For the Barlotto

_          tsp.                  Olive Oil Spray
1          Cup                 Diced Yellow Onion
2          tsp.                  Minced Garlic
1 lb. or 2 cups             Pearl Barley
5 to 6   Cups                Arugula Broth
1          Tbsp.               Roquefort Cheese
To Taste                      Sea Salt, Ground Pepper, Nutmeg

Heat a medium saucepot over high heat. Lightly spray pot with olive oil. Add onions, garlic and barley. Sauté for 2 minutes.  Stir in 1 – 2 cups of arugula broth, just enough to cover the barley. Stir well and reduce heat to a simmer. Stir barley constantly while cooking. The barley will absorb the liquid as it cooks. Continue to add broth to barley 1 cup at time, as the liquid is absorbed repeat as necessary. Taste the barlotto constantly to check its doneness. Barlotto should be cooked al dente: soft, cooked through, but still posses a slight bite to it.

For the Mushrooms:

_          tsp.                  Olive Oil Spray

4          Cups                Sliced Wild Mushrooms

½         Cup                 Minced Onion

½         tsp.                  Dried Thyme Leaves, Crumbled

to taste                        Sea Salt

to taste                        Ground Black pepper

Heat a medium sauté pan over high heat; lightly spray pan with olive oil. Add onions and sauté while stirring constantly for two to three minutes, or until lightly caramelized.  Add sliced mushrooms and continue to cook until they release liquid; adjust sesoning.  Cvontinue to cook until all of the liquid has evaporated and the mushrooms start to turn golden brown.  Remove from heat and reserve warm.

TO ASSEMBLE: Crumble Roquefort into barlotto and stir well to incorporate. The high quality of the cheese enables you to use less. Adjust seasonings with sea salt, pepper and nutmeg to taste.  Top with sautéed mushrooms.

Spring salad of fennel and citrus

Well it seems as if Spring is still not ready to stick around...despite the snow melting and flood watches, more winter is on the way!

But this does not change the fact that we are getting ready to get in shape for the impending warmer weather, and accompanying more revealing clothing.

This salad is light, healthy, highlights seasonal produce, AND the bright colors of the citrus (especially if you find Cara-Cara and Blood oranges), remind you that bright-sunshiny days are ahead.

Fennel-Citrus-Basil Salad

Serves 6

3          Ea.                   Seasonal Citrus

1          Head               Fennel

½         Ea.                   Small Red Onion, Shaved

½         Cup                 Basil Leaves, Packed

1          Tbsp.               Balsamic Vinegar

1          Tbsp.               Extra Virgin Olive Oil

1          Tbsp.               Orange Blossom Honey

to taste                        Kosher Salt

to taste                        Freshly Ground Black Pepper

To prepare the citrus remove peel and pith with a sharp knife.  Working over a bowl using a paring knife, cut along the membrane between segments to release the individual segments of citrus; reserve with any juices that may have collected. 

Remove the tops and leaves from the fennel, slice the bulb in half, and remove the core and any tough outer leaves.  Using a sharp knife, shave the fennel as thin as possible and place in a container; cover with a damp paper towel and place in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Roll the basil leaves into a tight “cigarette” and slice finely across the diameter of the “cigarette”, (chiffonade).  Reserve covered with a damp paper towel in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

TO ASSEMBLE: about half-an-hour before you are going to serve the salad, combine all ingredients in a large bowl and toss thoroughly to combine.  Adjust seasoning, transfer to a serving dish, and place in the refrigerator until ready to serve.

Weekly Menu additions for 2.22-23.13

Weekly Menu additions for 2.22-23.13

 

To start…

BLT Salad

butter lettuce, double smoked bacon, maine tomatoes, sriracha cured egg yolk, toast vinaigrette    9

To follow…

Dry-Aged Delmonico

70-day aged pt farms beef ribeye, skillet fried sweet potatoes, steakhouse style spinach, bone marrow custard, roasted new hampshire king oyster mushrooms, rainbow carrots, oyster mushroom ketchup, gore-dawn-zola bleu cheese butter    mkt priced

Canadian Salmon a la Plancha

with braised fennel, dried cranberries, herbed seasonal citrus salad, black lime, and tobiko     22

Baked Gnocchi and Cheese

potato gnocchi, beer cheese, caramelized onions, nc smokehouse bacon, and aged asiago cheese   15

“Chicken with 40-Cloves”

semi-boneless chicken breast braised in sesame oil with, ginger, anise, lemongrass, and

40-cloves of garlic; toasted jasmine rice, sweet chilli-soy broccoli raab, and dried pear dashi    17

Flatbread Pizza of the Day

composed and priced daily

Locally Raised Lamb

pt farms lamb chop, housemade lamb saucisson a l’ail, pommes puree, eggplant, native parsnips, baby carrots, black sesame, yogurt 28

To finish…

Cookies and Milk

S’more, peanut-peanut butter cup, and grandma’s sugar cookies with milk   5

Lemon Cream Cake

Lemon ricotta cheese between layers of sponge cake, fresh strawberries, chantilly cream   6

Bête Noir

Flourless chocolate cake, bay chantilly, coriander brittle, double chocolate crumble, spiced chocolate sauce   7