Tuesday, December 24, 2013

Best Brussels Sprouts. Ever.

I refer to these as the "Brussels sprouts for people who hate Brussels sprouts."  Sweet and sour.  Smoky and funky, with a punch of umami if you choose to add the fish sauce.  This is a great basic preparation that lends itself to endless improvisation, (add shallots, chiles, apples...)

Caramelized Brussels Sprouts with Bacon
Serves 4 as a side dish



1          pound                        Brussels sprouts, halved
                                             Kosher salt
3          tablespoons               butter
1          tablespoons               apple cider vinegar
3          tablespoons               maple syrup
1          tablespoon                fish sauce (optional)
8-10    slices                         crisped bacon, crumbled
                                             freshly ground pepper      
                            


Bring 3-quarts of salted water to a boil; blanch the Brussels sprouts for about 2 minutes in the boiling water; drain and shock in cold water.

Melt 2 tablespoons butter in a skillet over medium-high heat; add blanched Brussels sprouts and cook, stirring frequently until the spouts begin to brown, (about 5 minutes).  Deglaze the pan with the vinegar and reduce until almost gone; add maple syrup and fish sauce and reduce, stirring frequently, until the syrup has thickened and coats the Brussels sprouts. 


Just before serving add the remaining butter, and crisped bacon.  Adjust seasoning with salt, pepper and any additional vinegar or maple syrup.

Sunday, December 22, 2013

All I want for Christmas is...


Many years ago I was asked to contribute to an article regarding what chefs prepare for the families/eat for Christmas.  I’m sure that at the time, I composed some God-awful list of “fancy” and “gourmet” foodstuffs that I would be embarrassed to publish now. [Give me a few days to dig and I will start the holiday season shame spiral myself by putting it online]



Years later I realized that my Christmas family meal was the one shared with my team members; a group of people from greatly varying social, economic, ethnic, and religious backgrounds all brought together by the common bond of food.
Now I have come to reckon that all of my food wishes for the holidays were forged in the crucible of central New York: I always associate Christmas Eve with Italian food [Feast of the Seven Fishes}; December, 24 remains one of the only days of the calendar that I intentionally cook a menu with an Italian focus.
Christmas…definitively shaped by my two grandmothers: one who cooked from a straight-up Victorian English cookbook, and the other who was Southern and cooked from the 1950’s and 1960’s standard repertoire of American cuisine.  So what do I cook now?
Appetizers:
You really can’t go wrong with shrimp cocktail, (I have a major soft spot for the kind with little salad shrimp tossed with cocktail sauce and served on a bed of shredded iceberg lettuce), cheese, vegetables and dips, fruit, relish trays, olives, pickles, salads…cold/finger foods work the best because they can be done ahead of time, no additional cooking is required when guests are in house and everyone can help themselves.
Main Course
I am a big fan of the roast beast: ham, goose, venison, beef, turkey…again, items that can be seasoned and cooked  ahead of time with little to no extra work needed except for carving the meat to serve it.
Side Dishes
While this is where I take the most liberties with tradition, I still refrain from straying too far from tradition.  [The tradition I keep referencing is my/my family’s tradition, and not some worldly ideal]
My memories are of a dinner table brimming with family favorites and seasonal bounty from the local store, (creamed pearl onions, anyone?)  I really like to keep it simple here too: roasted root vegetables, caramelized Brussels sprouts with maple syrup and bacon, glazed carrots, mashed potatoes, pureed celery root, or sweet potato souffle.  All prepared ahead of time and bunged in the oven to cook or reheat for Christmas dinner.
Desserts
I will forever associate cheesecake with the holidays, (my grandmother’s recipe made too much batter for “her cheesecake pan” and she subsequently would bake the extra batter in a small loaf pan…which became MY cheesecake).  I also love eggnog…so I have started making an eggnog flavored cheesecake as of late…
This year I am serving warm gingerbread with whipped cream, (thick ginger cake…not gingerbread cookies), no-bake eggnog cheesecake with graham cracker streusel, and dark chocolate mousse with candy cane crunch at the hotel.  
As I wrote this I realized the irony: for a chef who proclaims to “hate repeating dishes” I sure do cook the same thing year in, and year out for holiday meals.  I really do feel that tradition is more important than innovation when bringing family together; that is not to say that you can’t put interesting wrinkles into tried and true favorites, (candied ginger-cranberry sauce).  
My only advice is to make simple and delicious food, taste and season/re-season your food as you go, and enjoy the time spent with friends and family.

Have a cool Yule...log!



In honor of the ancient festivities known as "Yule"...which begin on the Winter Solstice to celebrate the return of increasing daylight, and interestingly lasts for twelve days...

When asked for a holiday dessert that is really unique to Christmas, I really had to search the old memory banks for something kind of distinctive.  Then it came to me while contemplating the accent over the e in “bête”: “Bûche de Noël”…or kindly translated to English, a Yule Log!
 
As I rifled through old papers to find my recipe, I recalled the fact that this was, in fact, the first “complicated” pastry I ever made, (as a project for my seventh grade French class).  As I reviewed Mm. Agati’s recipe sheet, I stumbled upon the history of the “Yule log”:


“In pre-Christian Scandinavia, large bonfires were burned during the Jul (Yule) festivities, which honored the God Thor and celebrated the winter solstice.  As Christmas replaced Yule celebrations, the yule log no longer carried religious significance, but it still carried the traditions and superstitions associated with it.

In France, the log was to be cut only by the male members of the family, and was never cut or supplied by someone outside of the household.  Much pomp and circumstance surrounded the lighting of the Yule log, including singing and the pouring of wine over the log before it was lit.  Once lit, the log was used to cook Christmas Eve supper.  Ashes from the burned log were believed to have special powers, ranging from healing, to promoting crop growth, to increased fertility!

When, in time, fireplaces and logs became scarce in larger French cities, the practice of baking log shaped cakes was begun, to allow those without a fireplace to carry on the tradition.”

While this hasn’t been a tradition in my house in some years, I hope that it may be included in your family’s Yule celebrations this year.


Yule Log
(Bûche de Noël)
Yield:    1 Yule Log

SPONGE:

1        EA    egg white
5        OZ./ almond paste
6        EA    eggs, separated
5        OZ/  granulated sugar
½       tsp.    vanilla extract
2        OZ/  cake flour
1 ½    OZ/  unsweetened cocoa powder, sifted with the flour

FROSTING:

4        OZ    sweet butter, at room temperature

4        OZ    plain or butter flavored Crisco
8        OZ    confectionary sugar
8-10   OZ    sweet dark chocolate, melted, and warm to the touch

FOR DECORATION:

Marzipan holly berries and leaves (optional)

Melted sweet, dark chocolate (optional)
Confectioner’s sugar



1). Pre-heat oven to 425°F.  2). Gradually mix the egg white into the almond paste to soften it.  3). Whip the egg yolks with 1/3 of the sugar until thick and ribbony.  Add the vanilla.  Very slowly, add the egg yolk mixture to the almond paste; if you add it too fast you will get lumps.  4). Whip the egg whites until foamy and gradually add the remaining sugar.  Whip the whites to stiff peaks.  5). Sift the flour and cocoa together.  Carefully fold the egg whites into the egg yolks.  Fold in the dry ingredients.  6). Immediately spread the batter onto a baking paper-lined 9”x11” jellyroll pan, taking care not to “overwork” the batter.  7). Place the sponge in the pre-heated oven and bake for 8 minutes, or until the cake springs back in the middle when lightly pressed.  Dust a piece of baking paper with flour and invert the cooked sponge on top, (this prevents the sponge from overcooking and becoming dry).  Let cool.  8). While the sponge is cooling, place the butter and shortening in a mixing bowl, and whip with an electric mixer until combined and there are no visible lumps.  Gradually add the sugar and continue whipping until the frosting is light and fluffy, (it will double in volume and become very white).  Place 1/3 of the buttercream in a separate bowl, and quickly mix in the melted chocolate.  Still working quickly, add this back into the remaining buttercream.  9). Once the sponge is cooled and the frosting complete, spread approximately 2/3 of the frosting over the sponge, leaving a ½” border on the short sides, and a 1” border on the long side of the sponge closest to you, (or else the frosting will ooze out the sides as you roll it).  Roll the sponge like a jellyroll starting with the top long edge, working towards you, using the paper to help you.  10). Remove the paper, and refrigerate the rolled sponge, seam side down, and covered until the buttercream is firm.  11). Once the frosting is firm, cut off 2 ½ inches from one end of the log, and attach the “branch stump” to the log with some of the remaining buttercream.  Proceed to frost the sponge-roll to resemble the bark of a log.  At this point you can just sprinkle powdered sugar over the log to resemble snow and prepare to eat your very own Bûche de Noël, or you can get fancy and decorate with marzipan berries and leaves, (available from most reputable bakeries), and create bark patterns and wood grain with the melted chocolate.  Joyeux Noël!!!