Chef incentives are bad news for restaurant guests...

I have spent A LOT of time driving in my car over the last six months...resulting in a lot of time for my thoughts to wander.  I have also spent A LOT of time talking to other chefs, general managers, and owners of hospitality industry businesses.  Something that was a recurring theme was the pay for chefs; in most cases chefs' guaranteed salaries have been reduced, with business owners and general managers "making up" for this reduction by increasing the available bonus potential for chefs; incredibly tempting, and in some cases VERY lucrative.

After much pondering, I developed the following opinion over the course of several hours behind the wheel:

Incentivizing chefs is A BAD IDEA.

Some people, both chefs and their employers, will claim this is heresy.  And yes, chefs can increase their effective salary by 5%, 10%...I have even heard of a bonus program worth 30% (!) of the chef's base salary.  And everyone is always happy to make more money...BUT, what is the true cost of bonuses and incentives for chefs?

Some bonuses are good ones: the "Boss-is-a-great-guy-and-thinks-you-deserve-a-bonus" bonus, (also called the "just because..." bonus), percentage of sales bonuses, (these are great because the chef knows that the busier s/he is the more money s/he makes...usually 1% of sales or less), and profitability based bonuses.

The ones that I think are just dumb, are also those that are the most commonly deployed: incentives based on cost of goods sold, (i.e., dollar amount of all food purchased), and cost of labor, (i.e., dollar amount spent preparing the food).

And why, pray tell have I arrived at this conclusion?

The simple answer is human nature.

Most chefs will take a position and be prepared to live on the offered salary...the incentive bonus is just that: a bonus.  Found money.  An unexpected windfall.  Then there are others who will believe that they are entitled to that incentive money; that bonus money is part of their salary.

Everyone will swear up and down that they are honest people, (and most are), but when confronted with the possibility of making or losing thousands of dollars, just how honest will they really be?

Honestly?

The problem here is that despite one's honesty, there are just too many ways a chef can manipulate his "food cost", and qualify for his bonus.  "No one will ever know..."  The most disturbing, and outright dangerous, way to make your numbers is to use food that is borderline bad/should have been thrown out two days ago.  Less waste is money in the incentivized chef's pockets.  Less dangerous, but still outright poor judgement, is the temptation to use lesser quality foodstuffs; the guests suffer but the chef is winning.

An unexpected bill, anniversary, or the impending holiday shopping season will often lead the chef to find other ways they can manipulate the numbers: "finding" a few thousand dollars worth of inventory, overcharging guests on the menu/selling you a "14-ounce, select, wet-aged" steak for the price of a "16-ounce, prime, dry-aged" steak, overvaluing an item on inventory reports.

Chef's will often take similar shortcuts when it comes to keeping labor costs in line for their own personal gain.  I have known chefs who will underpay their staff, pass over very talented cooks so that they can hire less expensive, (and less talented), cooks, and who will purposely understaff their kitchens to keep labor expenditures down.

The result of all of this "scrimping and saving" is a significantly inferior dining experience for the guest, (lesser quality food, slower service because there are not enough cooks to actually cook the meal, potentially dangerous food), and a business that has been jeopardized in both the short, and long term.  Ultimately it is the greed of the chef that leads him/her to violate the trust of his/her boss that they will do the right thing, AND to disappoint, and potentially make their guests ill.

If business owners and their proxies have done their job correctly, they have hired a chef that they feel confident in.  Someone whom they believe will operate their kitchen with the same entrepreneurial spirit that they themselves have as business owners.  If they have hired the right person, they should compensate that person as well as they can up front; in return the chef should not violate that trust, and run the kitchen like it was their name on the door.    

So, here's a tough question...

I am in quite a bit of a quandary...my heart tells me that every product that I use as a chef should be from the area surrounding my restaurant; my mind tells me that I should be using the best possible ingredients available to me regardless of their provenance.

Which is right?

Is either point of view completely correct?

Is there a happy medium?

I really do not think there is a "one-size fits all" approach that can be taken.  Some operations just DO. NOT.  CARE.  Their chefs drive big gas guzzling cars, and eat burgers in Styrofoam containers...they are only concerned with the convenience of placing one order with one vendor; they do not care that strawberries or asparagus are NOT in season in January.  Neither origin nor quality of the products used are a concern.

On the other side of the coin, are the chefs that set out to use products that are only available within a certain radius of their kitchen, or in a specific geographical region.  One of the best examples of this is Chef Sean Brock's Husk Restaurant in Charleston, SC.  Not only does Chef Brock cook with ingredients that are native to and/or produced in the Southeastern US, he is working to preserve various foodstuffs from benne (the sesame seeds brought to the Americas from Africa on slave ships) to the original-pure bred pigs to traditional methods of preparation.  A semi-amateur food anthropologist and ambassador for real southern food.  What he is doing is truly laudable, and for those without the commitment he possesses: cripplingly daunting.  Here is Sean Brock on the Charlie Rose Show talking about what he does better than I can.

Of course, there are those chefs who did not set out to embrace local food as part of their mission statement, or any part of some agenda, but have come to rely very heavily on them as their careers have progressed.  Chef Andoni Luis Aduriz of Mugaritz Restaurant  in Spain admits that his interest in the produce around his restaurant was fostered in the early days of Mugaritz; it was during this time period that the dining room was devoid of customers and he and his staff had little to do other than go into the fields and woods around the restaurant to forage, and learn about was growing in his own backyard.  Building his cuisine using locally produced ingredients has worked out well for Chef Aduriz, as Mugaritz has been among the top 5 restaurants in the world for the last 5 years, and named the Number 3 restaurant in the world for the last two years!

And then there is Chef Thomas Keller.  In May of this year he was interviewed by the New York Times, to support Chef Aduriz's release of the Mugaritz cookbook coincidentally.  It was during this interview that Chef Keller was portrayed as writing off the idea of locally produced food: "I think about quality, not geography."  Two weeks after the Times piece, an essay written by Chef Keller was published in his own Finesse Magazine, in which Chef Keller addressed the true intent of his statements; while he IS concerned with carbon foot prints, and sustainability, and local producers, it is not his raison d'etre.  People's expectations of any Thomas Keller restaurant are so high, that for his businesses to survive he must find and procure and serve the absolute finest products in the world. If they come from his garden across the street or not, so be it.

So...where do I come down on all of this?

Well, first of all, I think that not showing any interest in the "quality/geography" discussion at all is irresponsible and dangerous for myriad reasons.  I feel that as a chef, it is my responsibility and duty to provide my guests with highest quality products that I can source, and I hope that I can find them with 50 to 100 miles of the restaurant.  I also feel that it is my place to scour the history of my region and my terroir for edibles that define the time and place of a guests dining experience.

As chefs we need to be active in our communities.  We need to work with our local farmers, vintners, cheese makers, fishermen, etc. and explain to them our wants and needs; to help our friends and neighbors produce, procure, and supply us with the high quality products that we are seeking.

What am I supposed to do with all of these?

Due to an abnormally hot summer and relatively dry conditions, the Northeast is seeing an abundance of tomatoes, and much earlier than we are used to.

So...aside from packing your surplus Green Zebras and Purple Cherokees up in plain paper bags, driving around the neighborhood, and leaving these bags on your unsuspecting friends' neighbors porches...as you do the Green-Grocer version of "ding-dong-dash", what are you to do with all of these freaking tomatoes?  (In northern New Hampshire we save the ding-dong-dash technique for zucchini!!!)

I would suggest saving some of the seeds from your choicest of fruits; vintageveggies.com has tips for seed saving for all kinds of different fruits and vegetables.  As for the rest of the tomatoes, I have included three recipes/techniques that are all super quick, easy (really easy...not "I've been a professional chef for 15 years" easy), delicious and low fat!

I don't include quantities because these are all technique based recipes, and this way you are able to completely adapt the recipes and flavor profiles to your liking, (and not mine!)

TOMATO WATER
An intensely flavored clear water, awesome frozen into ice cubes for a Bloody Mary or other vegetal cocktail! or use in place of stock to cook risotto or soup.  It has a short shelf life, so whatever you do not plan on using in a day or two should be frozen.

Fresh tomatoes, stems removed, washed and quartered
Kosher salt

-Line a fine mesh strainer with coffee filters, and set in a larger container to catch the water as it drains.
-Place prepared tomatoes in a blender or food processor with a pinch of salt; pulse until almost pureed.  Pour pureed tomatoes into prepared strainer; cover and refrigerate overnight.
-Discard solids collected in strainer and pour collected tomato water into a container with a tight fitting lid and store in the refrigerator/freeze.



CHARRED TOMATO SAUCE
This has been a go-to sauce for years: super easy to execute, and works as a killer sauce for grilled chicken, pork, or fish; (it's also a great way to use up the imperfect/blemished tomatoes from the garden.)  Can also be reheated over low heat and used as sauce for pasta, or served chilled as a sauce for grilled veggies.  This sauce is based on the technique, and you should adjust quantity and flavor as you prefer.

Fresh tomatoes, stems removed, washed
Garlic cloves, skin and root removed
Balsamic vinegar
Brown Sugar
Kosher Salt
Freshly Ground Black Pepper
Extra Virgin Olive Oil

-Place tomatoes on pre-heated grill and cook, turning occasionally, until skin is completely charred.  Place charred tomatoes, while still hot, in a food processor or blender; add garlic, vinegar, brown sugar, salt and pepper.  Blitz on high speed until smooth; drizzle in olive oil in a slow-steady stream.
-Adjust seasoning with garlic/sugar/vinegar/salt/pepper as you like.  Blitz on high again to combine.  Adjust seasoning, reserve warm.

The consistency can be adjusted by adding more oil while the machine is running to thicken the sauce, or adding more vinegar, water, or tomato water to thin the sauce.



TOMATOES CONFIT
Traditionally a confit is meat cooked slowly in, and preserved by completely submerging it in, its own rendered fat, the most famous being duck confit.  In a modern kitchen, "confit" has come to mean any food cooked slowly while submerged in any fat, like this tomato preparation.  This is a great technique: it uses up as many tomatoes as you need it to, it is a great way to use up an excess of fresh herbs as well, you will end up with roasted garlic, tomato-garlic-herb oil, and some super intense tomato syrup (if you are feeling adventurous).  I like to use a large recyclable aluminum roasting pan for this task.

Fresh tomatoes, stems removed, washed; cut into even sized wedges, cut through blossom/stem ends
Garlic cloves, skin and root removed
Fresh Herbs, (Basil/Thyme/Rosemary/Cilantro), washed
Kosher Salt
Freshly Ground Black Pepper

Vegetable oil, we use a 10% olive oil blend

-Combine tomatoes, garlic, and fresh herbs in a roasting pan, filling the roasting pan halfway.  Adjust seasoning, add enough oil to completely cover contents of roasting pan.
-Cover roasting pan tightly with aluminum foil and place in oven.  Turn oven to 300 F for 30 minutes.
-FOR GAS OVEN: turn oven off, and let tomatoes cook in oven for 24-hours over pilot light.
-FOR ELECTRIC OVEN: turn oven to lowest setting and cook for 12 hours.
-Remove pan from oven; remove tomatoes with garlic and herbs from oil and place in sanitized resealable jars.  Strain oil through fine mesh strainer and cover tomatoes with oil; cover and refrigerate tomatoes for up to 3 months, (they can be stored in plastic and frozen for up to 6 months).

For the adventurous, take the strained tomato oil and place in a clear container and refrigerate for 3 days.  You will notice tomato juice that has collected on the bottom of the container, the object is to remove as much of the oil, (save in the refrigerator for any other cooking applications), and save as much of the juice as possible.  After you have removed as much of the oil as possible reduce to tomato juice over low heat, (if you see bubbles you need to reduce the heat...yes THAT low), until thick and syrupy; use like you would ketchup.

THIS is where to go for dinner...

A few weeks ago we had the opportunity to dine out at a few places we had always been meaning to go, (thanks, Ma' Beers for taking the kid!).  We graced the dining room of a centuries old multi-starred inn, and a relatively new restaurant focused on farm-to-table/locavore cooking, (i.e. how a real chef cooks anyway), helmed by one of my favorite chefs in the area: Root.



I had first heard of Root last winter...people I knew were telling me how "expensive" Root was because they had a $12 hamburger...at that time I had a $29 hamburger on my menu, so I just labeled these criticisms as uninformed, and prayed they wouldn't visit, and publicly flay me for approaching the $30 mark with my burger!!!

Then I learned that Rich Larcom was the chef...and I couldn't wait to go. I've dined at some of his previous restaurants, and have even cribbed some ideas along the way.

BUT, work obligations kept me from having free time to dine.  I even did a charity event with Chef Larcom and apologized profusely for not "making the time" to come and eat at Root.  NOW my current work obligations afford me the free time to visit the dining rooms of my colleagues and friends.

I know the chef.  I know the concept.  I know I am going to have a good time...so off we went.

SO, I will not bore or go into the tedium of my meal...the high points: the signature cocktail list is amazing, especially if you are into bourbon (what chef isn't?) or seasonal produce driven libations.  The grilled sugar peas were awesome, as were the entrees.  The best bluefish I have EVER eaten, and another dish I won't divulge...because, as I have already told Rich, I plan on stealing it!  Big, bold flavors.  I can still see and taste many of the dishes from that night...

What Rich and his staff at Root had done when all was said and done was create food memories!  Some new, some rekindled.  I am a big fan and you should be, too if you are caring enough to support your neighbors:  www.Rootnh.com

You're kidding, right? (Haters gotta hate I suppose)

This is an open letter of sorts.

A couple of weeks back an anonymous person responded to a job posting I had online that enticed prospective cooks with the possibility of working with hydrocolloids if they were selected to join my team.  It was roughly 1:00 AM when I opened the would-be applicant's email...fortunately I deleted the email despite my boozy inclinations to rain down a torrent of obscenity laden "who the f' do you think you are?" tirades.

So...what did this tough guy/gal who refused to give their name have to say?  Well, it was 1:00 AM, and I had a few beers, BUT the gist of the "applicant" was this:

"I will cut off my pinky if you can find one cook who wants to work with hydrocolloids.  No one in this area (Ithaca) has ever cooked with hydrocolloids.  They are for foo-foo chefs in fancy restaurants in big cities..."

You get the picture; people are incredibly critical sometimes, especially when they have no idea about the subject that scares them so.  And yes, I am making a grand presumption here, that my anonymous critic that evening has no idea of what a hydrocolloid even is.  Here is why I have made such a grand leap: simply put, a hydrocolloid is a substance that forms a gel in water, most commonly used in the dental field for taking dental impressions.

A colloid is a substance that is dispersed throughout another substance; hydrocolloids are substances that disperse evenly throughout water on a microscopic level and form a gel.

Without going into shear rates and thermoreversability of different hydrocolloids, here is a short list of some of the most commonly used hydrocolloids in food, and my vindication:
Agar agar and carageenan, which are derived from seaweed; gelatin, derived from bovine and fish sources; pectin, which is extracted from citrus peels and apples.  Other forms, including ones derived from microbial sources are xanthan gum, and guar gum, as well as cellulose derived varieties like alginate and starches (like flour, corn starch, and potato starch).

Some of these ingredients seem very familiar to anyone who has ever eaten a gelatin dessert, made a pectin thickened jam or jelly, or thickened gravy with flour or corn starch.  Without xanthan gum, and other natural gums, your salad dressings would always separate into its two phases of oil and vinegar, pickle relish would not be diced pickle suspended in its brine, and your toothpaste would not come out of the tube as a paste.  Xanthan gum is also used to replace gluten in many gluten-free baked goods.

Agar agar is used as a vegan alternative to gelatin, and to make dental molds.  Carageenan is used to prevent ice crystals from forming in ice cream, and to allow lower-fat versions of the frozen treat to seem "creamy."

And yes, chef's do use some of these hydrocolloids as part of the modernist cuisine bag of tricks, (you may know it as "Molecular Gastronomy"...which is inaccurate nomenclature, boiling water or frying an egg are cooking on a molecular level, too...another debate for another day...)  I have been known to take a soy-mushroom brine and thicken it with agar and make a savoury "pudding" out of it.  I think that people who respect the process use it to enhance "real" cooking and not as a substitute for it or as a cheap parlour trick.  Again, another debate...another day.

Where was I?  Ah, yes...

So, my anti-modernist cuisine "friend," you are going to try and tell me that, in what could be considered as the "foodiest area in New York State" due to the highest number of restaurants per capita, Not. One. Cook.  Has ever made a box of J-ello?  Or helped mom bake an apple pie?  (Fer chri'sake you're cooking with gelatin every time you roast meat).

I cry bull-shit!

I decry you as a sad little person...one who believes that just because you have an opinion, I want to hear it.  And an even sadder one who has the blinders on so snugly that you are unable to see the truth beyond your version of it.

Have Pig, Will Travel

The spoils of Father's Day!

My Dixie Pig, named Geoff, is now just waiting for his new kitchen home...stay tuned for that one.

Indefensible Factory Farms

This may sound ridiculous coming from me, especially to those who have worked with me or eaten in my dining room:

As a society we eat too much meat.

I know, I know...for a chef who has staked the last few years of his professional success on fat, big pieces of meat, bombast, and pork this seems sacrilegious!!!  That not withstanding, I do feel that we place far too much emphasis on meat in our diet.

I like meat.  I like to cook it, visit farmers who provide it, butcher it, smell it, prepare it for cooking...it is a heady experience knowing that this animal has given its entire existence to nourish yours.  I further appreciate the time and effort and expense that is incurred by true animal husbandry; one of my earliest memories is being dragged out of a cozy warm bed to the next door neighbor's barn in the middle of the night with my dad to help deliver a breached calf; we celebrated with super sweet and milky instant coffee (possible root of my last true vice?). 

If you are a farmer, I thank you.

Now, what I am talking about are REAL farmers.  The salt of the earth guys that I grew up seeing at the local IGA, bank, post office...BUT what we have today are production line workers in factory farms...and yes food is "more affordable," but at what price?  Should we shut our neighbors out while not giving a damn about the environmental ravages of factory farming?

NO means NO!..If I could just say NO...

A while back I remember reading an article in the New York Times regarding the word "NO!"

More specifically, a story about NYC chef's, notably David Chang and April Bloomfield, who are saying "NO" to customers!

It is not an ego issue; it is not a control issue (per se); it is not being obstinate.

It is simply that sometimes the customer is NOT right!  Is it safe to come out yet?  Well, let me explain...

Every cook and chef that works in a kitchen learns how to cook the food that is being served using what is essentially muscle memory.  Preparing the same item the same way hundreds, if not thousands, of times is what enables us to prepare somewhat complicated dishes within an acceptable time frame.  The last thing I want a cook to do is have to think about what he/she is doing. 

We don't like your order hanging around the kitchen any more than you do...

Now, you throw a special request in the works:

"Can I have the sauce without mushrooms?  Can I get the lamb without the cumin rub?  Can I..?"

While I want you to have the most spectacular time whenever you come into the restaurant, I REALLY do...and I REALLY want to try and accommodate your request...these requests can derail E-V-E-R-Y-T-H-I-N-G!!! 

Creatures of habit,  rewriting the menu on the fly for everyone who walks through the door with a special request, cooks do not deal well with these monkey wrenches; they could indeed lead to your meal not being what you expected...and could absolutely ruin Table 22's night as well.  Yeah, the really nervous guy behind you that was going to propose tonight...

If you have a food allergy, we will accommodate you gladly, but please tell your server...NO, make a reservation ahead of time and let me know that you are coming.  Forewarned is forearmed: you will have a spectacular experience, (again, the cook does not have to think to execute)!!!

I truly believe that when you come in to my house, I will treat you like a guest; please respect the house rules...or at least give my menu a try before you rewrite it.